《永远的行走：与中国相遇》
引子
解说词
有的人认为我疯了，有道理。我的名字叫保罗•萨洛佩科，我受过专业的生物学训练，我曾是一名经验丰富的驻外记者，现在是《国家地理》的撰稿人和探险家。我不断地在行走，从非洲出发，徒步走向南美洲的最南端——火地岛。我的项目叫“永远的行走”，是一个有关“慢下来”的旅程，花时间去倾听、去学习，全情投入地去和人们交流。
Some people think I’m crazy. Fair enough. My name is Paul Salopek. I’m a biologist by training, a foreign correspondent through long experience. And a national geographic writer and explorer. I am walking continuously without breaks from Africa, all the way to the tip of South America, the place called Tierra Del Fuego. My project, called “The Forever Walk”, is a journey about slowing down, taking the time to listen, to learn, and to interact with humanity in the most immersive way possible.
我的目的是与人相遇。无论我遇见谁，这些沿途人们的日常生活，让我窥见我们这个时代的重要议题。他们的故事构成一个意义丰富的镶嵌艺术品，连接着我们所有人。
People are my destination. Regardless of who I encounter, it’s the daily lives of the individuals along my trail who offer windows into the big issues of our time. Their stories form a mosaic of meaning that can connect us all.
现在，我的旅程带着我和我的当地徒步伙伴深入中国。我们将遇见谁？他们从哪里来？他们将到哪里去？一如既往，答案随着我的步伐慢慢揭晓。
Now, my journey has taken me and my local walking partners deep into China. Who will we encounter? Where are they from and where are they going? The answers, as always, are revealed one footstep at a time.
实况
保罗：景色太美了，很少人能看到这样的美景吧。
Paul: What a view! Not too many people get this view.
标题：永远的行走：与中国相遇
The Forever Walk: China
岷江邂逅
Flow of Life
解说词
我在徒步中学到了很多，其中之一是你无法轻视河流对于人类故事的重要性。从古代文明，到新文明，河流就像静脉，承载着我们赖以生存的物质——水。就像时间，河流将我们的过去和现在带入未知但共同的未来。
One of the many things I’ve learned on the walk, is that it’s hard to over-state the importance of rivers to the story of humankind. From old civilizations…To new civilizations…Rivers are like veins, carrying the lifeblood we all depend on: water. And like time itself, rivers also carry our past and our present into an unknown but shared future.
解说词
自从踏入中国，我沿着胡焕庸线行走，它是一条穿越中国东部和西部的假想分界线，它将引导我跨越10个省市，行程6000多公里。现在，它带我来到了四川省中部。
Since setting foot in the Middle Kingdom, I’ve been following the Hu-Line. It’s an imaginary boundary that divides east and west China, and it’ll steer me some 6000 kilometers across 10 provinces. Now it’s brought me into the heart of Sichuan.
实况
保罗·萨洛佩科 PAUL SALOPEK（国家地理 探险家 撰稿人 National Geographic Explorer and Writer）：眼睛闭起来，准备好了吗？
李惠普：天啊。
保罗：你应该说：“啊”。
李惠普：要喘口气。
保罗：把这个（毛巾）也弄湿。
李惠普：真的吗？
保罗：是的，把这个（毛巾）弄湿，像这样放在头上，再把帽子戴上，阿拉伯人就是这么做的。这就像空调，一瞬间，你就感觉自己好像身处500美元一晚的高级酒店顶级套房里。
李惠普：但你知道，在中医里。
保罗：这样不好吗？
李惠普：是的，不好。
李惠普：湿的头发，然后你盖着它，这样会让你头疼。
保罗：真的吗？
李惠普：你可能应该让头发干一点，再盖上去。
Paul: Keep your eyes closed, keep your eyes closed. Okay, ready?
Huipu: Oh owww…
Paul: You should be saying ah!
Huipu: Want to breathe.
Paul: Yea yeah, so you wet this too.
Huipu: Oh really?
Paul: Yeah, wet this too and hang it on your head now like this.
Paul: Then put your hat on.
Paul: And this is what the Arabs do. It’s air conditioning. It’s like suddenly you feel like you’re inside of a 500-dollar suite on top of the Hilton hotel.
Huipu: But you know in Chinese medicine?
Paul: It’s bad?
Huipu: Yeah, it’s bad.
Paul: Ah.
Huipu: Wet hair and you cover it, that will give you a headache.
Paul: Really?
Huipu: Mmm.
Paul: Okay.
Huipu: You probably want to let it dry a little bit and then when it’s dry, put it down.
解说词
加入此次行走的是一位新的徒步伙伴，32岁的教育工作者，李惠普。
Joining me on my journey is a new walking partner, 32-year-old educator Li Huipu.
采访 李惠普 LI HUIPU（徒步伙伴 教育工作者 Walking Partner and Educator）
徒步提供我去了解自己的家乡和周边地区的机会。
我并不是一个热衷运动的人，但自从去年，我认识了保罗，我们探讨了一起徒步的可能性，我就一直在锻炼，锻炼更多地行走，但从来没有像现在这样一天徒步20公里。我感觉找到了自己的运动方式，我也擅长。
保罗：是的，你很擅长。
李惠普：我很擅长。
保罗：你很棒。
李惠普：我对此也非常惊讶。
Huipu: This walk is really an opportunity for me to get to know my hometown and regions around my hometown. I wasn't very a super like workout person before but ever since last year I met with Paul and talked about the possibility of me joining the walk, I've been practicing, you know, like practicing walking a little bit but never 20 kilometers per day in my life so that was something! And I think I found a sports for me. It’s kind of like I’m so good!
Paul: You’re good at it!
Huipu: I’m pretty good at this!
Paul: You’re good at it.
Huipu: I’m also amazed by it!
三星堆
解说词
我们来到了古老岷江的河岸，它是长江最大的支流。1929年，一位农民在挖掘灌溉沟渠时挖出了一堆玉器。
We’ve come to the banks of the ancient Minjiang River - the largest tributary of the famed Yangtze - where in 1929, a farmer unearthed a cache of jade artifacts while digging an irrigation ditch.
三星堆考古现场
解说词
他并不知道这些珍宝属于三星堆，一个消失了的古文明，它大约与埃及法老图坦卡蒙时代同时期兴盛，长期以来，人们并不清楚它的起源、历史和文化，现在不同了。
Little did he know that these treasures belonged to Sanxingdui, a lost civilization that flourished around the time of the Egyptian pharaoh Tutankhamun, their origins, history and culture have been hidden…Until now.
解说词
赵昊博士是一位考古学者，带领挖掘。他向我们介绍了至今一些最重要的考古发现。
Dr. Zhao Hao is one of the archaeologists leading the excavation. He sheds light on some of the most significant findings to date.
实况
赵昊 DR. ZHAO HAO（北京大学考古文博学院副教授 Archaeologist School of Archaeology and Museology, Peking University）：你可以看到这些深色的长的东西是象牙，它们被燃烧过了。
赵昊：当我们挖掘出所有的象牙，我们看到了一些陶瓷，我们认为它可能是陶瓷的容器，或者曾经是完整的容器，但被象牙压碎成小块了。还有一些玉器和青铜器，这三者都是非常重要和有趣的。所以，这里就是这些东西。这是小的人物形象。
保罗：这个看上去有多高？你觉得有多少厘米？
赵昊：大概30厘米，我指的是头发。
保罗：仅仅是头发。
赵昊：头发是有作用的，因为两只手之间有个空隙。
保罗：拿东西的？
李惠普：是的。
赵昊：这个人物很小，但你可以看到很多细节。
保罗：是的，很漂亮。
赵昊：像是指甲。
赵昊：你还可以看到这些。
保罗：关节。
赵昊：这些关节、指甲还有这个地方。
保罗：还有腕骨。
Dr. Zhao: You can see these dark long things are ivories. They have been burnt.
Dr. Zhao: When we put out all the ivories, we see some of the ceramic things. We think they are ceramic vessels or used to be complete ceramic vessels but they have been pressed into small pieces by the ivories. And there are also some jade artifacts and bronze artifacts. Three of them are very important and interesting. So they are these things. It’s Small figures.
Paul: How long are we looking at here? Like how many centimeters do you think?
Dr. Zhao: Around 30 centimeters. I mean the hair.
Paul: Oh god, the hair alone!
Dr. Zhao: The hair is functional because there is a gap between two hands.
Paul: Holders of something?
Huipu: Yeah exactly.
Dr. Zhao: This figure is very small but you can see many many details.
Paul: Yea, beautiful.
Dr. Zhao: Like the nail.
Dr. Zhao: and you can see these things.
Paul: Knuckles.
Dr. Zhao: These joints, nails and this part.
Paul: And the bone, the wrist bone.
解说词
这是一个令人眼花缭乱的青铜时代文物宝库，与以前在中国发现的任何文物都不同，也与以往任何时候看到的都不同，这些大多是从祭祀坑里挖掘出来的，它们分布在有伦敦希思罗机场那么大的古老城区里。
A dazzling trove of bronze age relics unlike anything previously found in China, and unlike anything ever seen, most hauled from a series of burn pits located inside a sprawling ancient urban area the size of London’s Heathrow Airport.
采访 保罗·萨洛佩科 PAUL SALOPEK（国家地理 探险家 撰稿人 National Geographic Explorer and Writer）
亲眼、实时看到考古学家把文物从地下挖出来，是非常难得的机会。它就像带你搭上时光机，你的想象力被打开，你在想天哪，他们是怎么生活在这里的。他们穿什么？吃什么？是什么让他们心疼？什么使他们欢笑？他们完全就像我们一样。你可以让他们坐在这个房间，我们没有任何不同，唯一的问题可能是我们要努力去理解他们说了什么，但他们有着和我们一样的情感。
Paul: Seeing archaeologists literally pulling things out of the ground in real time is a very rare privilege. It transports you, it’s like a time machine, your imagination is unlocked and you're thinking about my God how did they live here? What did they wear? What did they eat? What made their heart ache? You know, what made them laugh? They're exactly the same as us. You could sit them down in this room and you would have no difference except we'd have struggled to understand what they're saying but they would have exactly the same range of emotions.
解说词
我希望研究员何晓歌能够和我们分享她的一些挖掘经历和见解，让我们对这些发现有更好的理解。
I’m hoping researcher He Xiaoge can share some of her own experiences and insights at the dig to help make sense of these findings.
实况
保罗：当你拿起这些器物时，会有一些共鸣感吗？有一种（古物在与你）低声耳语的感觉吗？
何晓歌 HE XIAOGE（北京大学考古文博学院博士生 Doctoral Student School of Archaeology and Museology, Peking University）：每次我们提取出来一个人头，我们都会先把他抱起来，然后对着他的眼睛先看一下，就感觉在与古人对视，就感觉特别想问他三个终极问题：你是谁？你从哪里来？你到哪里去了？
保罗：天啊。这也是我会问的三个问题。
何晓歌：三星堆城可以分为几个部分，其中城北发现了大型的建筑，可能是当时高级人的宫殿，然后还有一些治玉石器的作坊，可能是当时人世俗活动区。在那条马目河之南，大多数学者都认为这是一个专门开辟的祭祀区。它应该是中间集中会有这几个大坑，祭祀坑附近应该会有一座神庙，因为我们坑里发现了一些建筑遗存，学者就认为是神庙的遗存，这个神庙里面就陈列着我们坑里现在看到的所有的器物。
保罗：他们甚至会用寺庙的一部分来焚烧？
何晓歌：对，烧神庙那天应该是三星堆人最特别的一天吧。
Paul: When you pick up these things, do they echo something to you? Is there a whisper of this?
He: Every time we excavate a head, we always hold it up first and look into its eyes as if we are meeting an ancient person. I feel compelled to ask them the three ultimate questions. Who are you? Where are you from and where are you going?
Paul: Oh my gosh! Those are the three questions that I ask.
He: Sanxingdui can be divided into a few areas. To the north of the city, we discovered a large building that’s likely to have been a palace for the superiors. Then there are some workshops for making jade tools in what was probably a residential area. Then to the south of the Mamu river is what scholars believe to have been a dedicated sacrificial area with a number of big pits and there would have been a temple nearby because we uncovered structural remains in these pits which we believe are its remains. This temple held all the artifacts you see here.
Paul: Wow. So they're even taking apart their temples and burning them？
He: Yes, the day they burned the temple would have been a most significant day for the Sanxingdui people.
三星堆博物馆
解说词
在此之后，三星堆的所有迹象很快就消失了，尽管经过几十年的挖掘、研究和资金投入，这些不同寻常的文物加深了制造这种精妙艺术的古人的神秘感。
All signs of Sanxingdui vanished soon thereafter. Despite decades of excavation, research and investment, the extraordinary relics only deepen the enigma of the mysterious people who made such sophisticated art.
实况
保罗：某个艺术家很好地把握了动物的精髓，有人一直在观察这些鸟。非常棒的作品。
Paul: Certain artists are able to capture the spirit of an animal really well and somebody’s been looking at these birds. What a piece huh?
解说词
他们为什么会抛弃这一切？一种假设是一场地震可能引发了灾难性的山体滑坡，切断了他们的主要水源岷江的通道，并将其转移到一个新的地方，这可能促使人们放弃他们的城市，沿着这条河走到新的方向。
Why would they leave all of this behind? One hypothesis is that an earthquake may have triggered catastrophic landslides that cut off access to the Minjiang River – their main water source – and diverted it to a new location, this might have spurred the people to abandon their city and follow the river to its new course.
采访 保罗
三星堆（文明）的消失很好地提醒了我，当我们需要生存时，用腿移动是最古老的生存方法之一。迁移不是问题，这可能是一个解决方案。
Paul interview: It's a good reminder for me, the collapse at Sanxingdui, about when we need to survive, using our legs to move is one of the oldest methods to survive. Migration is not a problem. It can be a solution.
四川
解说词
我在四川中部，与我的徒步伙伴们一起穿越郁郁葱葱的农田，他们勇敢地面对着这里令人窒息的热浪。
I’m in the middle of Sichuan, crossing lush farmlands with my walking partners, a motley caravan brave enough to face a stifling heatwave in the province.
实况
女士1：你们要不要生黄瓜？
李惠普：一人一根。
罗新：一人一根。
保罗：一根就够了，这个很重。
保罗：一个。
李惠普：保罗，拿一根。
保罗：谢谢。
保罗：再拿一根，谢谢，谢谢你。
罗新：谢谢你。
李惠普：谢谢。
女士2：不用谢。
Lady 1: Do you guys want some cucumbers?
Huipu: Just one each.
Prifessor Luo: Just one each.
Paul: Just one because they’re heavy you know.
Paul: Just one.
Huipu: Paul, take one.
Paul: Thank you.
Paul: Take one more. Thank you. Thank you.
Professor Luo: Thank you.
Huipu: Thank you.
Lady 2: You are welcome.
解说词
时不时地会有专家加入我的旅程，他们为我的故事带来的深度思考和历史背景充实了我的故事内容。北京大学的罗新教授就是其中之一。
Every now and then, specialists join me on my journey, providing depth and context to the history that underpins my storytelling. Professor Luo Xin from Peking University is one of them.
采访 保罗·萨洛佩科 PAUL SALOPEK（国家地理 探险家 撰稿人 National Geographic Explorer and Writer）
我的这一段徒步非常特殊的一点，相比之前在中国、在全世界的徒步，是能和一个世界级的历史学者一起行走。罗新教授仿佛是一本中国历史的百科全书，难能可贵的是他既是知识分子、学者和深刻的思考者，而且拥有强健的体魄。他完全能跟上徒步的节奏，事实上，他经常整天都走在最前面。
Paul interview: What's been really special about this section of the walk - not just in China, but across the world - is walking with a world leader in historical knowledge, and Professor Luo is an encyclopedia of information about the history of China. He's this very rare combination of an intellectual, an academic, a deep thinker with a very athletic body. I mean he has no trouble keeping up. In fact he's often leading during the day.
实况
罗新：乡村小道让你的鞋子很烫对吗？
保罗：是的，你的脚也很热，然后你就会起水泡。
Professor Luo: The country road, they make your shoes hot right?
Paul: Yes, makes your feet hot too. That’s how you get blisters.
采访 罗新 PROF. LUO XIN （作家 历史学家 北京大学中国古代史研究中心 Author and Historian Research Center of Ancient Chinese History, Peking University）
我当然得有好多期待才会来。我虽然知道他开始这段旅程，我知道已经有差不多8年时间了，他一出发不久我就知道了，而且我也在我自己写的书里面也介绍他，而且他的旅行也是我自己曾经的长途旅行的一个动力。我从北京走到（内蒙古）正蓝旗跟他的旅行比起来，就像后花园里的闲庭信步，但是我用我这一段信步向他致敬，我在书里面就这样写的。
Professor Luo interview: I’ve been anticipating this trip. I’ve known about this walk for 8 or 9 years, so not long after he started and I introduced him in my book. His journey motivated me into doing a long walk of my own. My walk from Beijing to Zhenglan Banner (Inner Mongolia) is like a leisurely stroll in the back garden compared to his, but this walk of mine was a salute to him. That’s what I wrote in the book.
解说词
沿着岷江行走，我发现纵观中国历史，河流承载着一种近乎神话的特质，介于人与神话想象之间，它们是几个世纪以来中国诗歌、艺术、文学、民间传说和哲学的主题。
Tracing the Minjiang River, I learn that throughout Chinese history, rivers carried an almost mythical quality - something between the human and the divine, they are subjects of centuries of Chinese poetry, art, literature, folklore and philosophy.
实况
罗新：非常舒服，试一下。
Professor Luo: Ah, it’s nice! Try!
采访 罗新
我们作为现代人，因为我们打开水龙头就有水，我们总是意识不到水是很有限的，也意识不到水的重要性。我觉得跟着保罗这样走路，跟他一起聊天，讨论今天我们看到的世界，以及遥远的古代人。在这个时候，我们才会比较真切地意识到那些人类所面对的那些水的问题。
Professor Luo interview: As modern people, we turn on the tap and there's water, so we don't always realize water is actually limited and how important it is. Walking with Paul, talking with him about the world we see today and the people from the ancient past, we become more aware of the water problems that humans face.
解说词
水是有限的资源，只有合理利用才能够再生。沿着先人的足迹，我们很快就发现了一个非常棒的案例。
Water is a finite resource and only renewable if well managed. Following in the footsteps of our ancient predecessors, we soon find a prime example.
许多古老的寺庙在河流的两岸扎根，过去很多人都会去祈祷频繁的洪水不要破坏四川盆地上的这块土地。但其实这些困扰他们的水，同样也造福他们。
A wealth of old temples have taken root along the river banks, where many have prayed for relief from the frequent floods devastating this region of the Sichuan basin. Unbeknownst to them, these very waters that plagued them… would end up being their salvation.
四川 都江堰
解说词
都江堰是四川省的一个城市，以这里的一个地标命名，一个在公元前三世纪建造的灌溉系统，至今仍在使用。
Dujiangyan is a city in Sichuan province named after its famed landmark, an irrigation system built in the third century BC, that’s still in operation today.
伏龙观
实况
李惠普：这个向你展示了整个灌溉系统的结构。
罗新：是的，这个很棒。这里有个结构点。
保罗：这是什么？
李惠普：这个叫鱼嘴。
李惠普：这个是外河，这个是内河，内河通往成都。
李惠普：所以原理就是分流河流，不让所有的水都流入成都。这是第一个改道装置。一路过去，你会看到飞沙堰。因为这里有一个小的角度，就可以把河流里的沙土和石头过滤到外河。
Huipu: So this shows you like the whole structure of the irrigation system.
Professor Luo: Yeah, this is good. Here is the point.
Paul: That’s it?
Huipu: This is called like the “Fish Mouth”. This is outside river, this is like inner river. The inner river actually goes through Chengdu, right?
Huipu: So the idea is that you probably want to split the water so that not all the water will flood into Chengdu. So this is the first diversion. And all the way over here you will have something called Fei Sha Yan because there is like a little angle here, right? And you will have this to filter a lot of the sand and stone into the outer river.
李惠普：这里就是宝瓶口了。
保罗：非常漂亮。
李惠普：是的。
李惠普：一旦有大量的水涌入，漩涡会帮助启动过滤的功能，因为这样就能够过滤掉。
保罗：泥沙。
罗新：清理泥沙。
李惠普：因为是像这样运作的。
Huipu: And over here you have one last piece, it’s called “Bottleneck”.
Paul: Wow! Very beautiful.
Huipu: Yeah.
Huipu: Once there is a huge volume of water flood in, the whirlpools actually help to activate the function of the filter because right, in this way it’s actually filtering out the…
Paul: The silt.
Professor Luo: Cleaning the sand.
Huipu: Because it goes like this.
解说词
这个庞大的早期水利工程不仅在地形利用上令人印象深刻，而且在巧妙的建造上也令人惊叹。
This colossal early water project is not just impressive in the way it takes advantage of the topography, but also in its ingenious construction.
实况
罗新：过去，他们把竹篮里装满石块，并把一个个竹篮排在一起建造了这个。在中国南部其他地方，你还能看见这样的结构。和你在某一篇文章里提到的技术一样，中亚的百姓引导羚羊朝着他们想要的方向，进入陷阱。
李惠普：是的。
保罗：那是一种柔性解决方法。
李惠普和罗新：是的。
Professor Luo: In the past time, they made this with the bamboo basket full of rocks. They put one by one together to build this. In other parts, in Southern China, you can still see the structures. The same technology you mentioned in your articles - one of your articles – that the people in Central Asia that they guide the antelopes in the direction they want it to the trap.
Huipu: Yeah.
Paul: It’s more kind of a soft energy solution.
Huipu and Professor Luo: Yeah yeah.
解说词
它很好地诠释了中国的一句格言：天下莫柔弱于水,而攻坚强者莫之能先。柔软战胜坚硬，温和战胜刚强。
It really puts into perspective the Chinese adage: ‘nothing in the world is as soft and yielding as water. Yet for dissolving the hard and inflexible, nothing can surpass it. The soft overcomes the hard, the gentle overcomes the rigid.’
引水入田，都江堰不仅阻止了洪水，且为粮食的生产提供源源不断的灌溉，逐渐打开了黄金时代的大门。
By corralling the river, Dujiangyan prevented floods and provided consistent irrigation for food production. And in the process, opened up the doors to a golden age.
采访 罗新 PROF. LUO XIN （作家 历史学家 北京大学中国古代史研究中心 Author and Historian Research Center of Ancient Chinese History, Peking University）
我们已经一直都在河边上，无论怎么绕来绕去都是总会走到一条大水渠边上。这些水渠我们也都去摸过了，碰过了。岷江来的这些水都像雪水一样，都是冰的。水流这么急，因为饥渴的成都平原在呼唤它们，它们都在往那边冲过去，对吧？从西向东冲过去。没有它们，就没有我们今天所知的成都平原。所以这个重要性真的是不容易夸大，怎么说都不容易夸大。
Professor Luo interview: We have been walking along rivers this whole time and no matter the route we always come across a large waterway. We’ve touched these waters from the Minjiang river and it’s cold like snow, rushing past because the hungry plains of Chengdu is beckoning them to rush from west to east. Without them the Chengdu plains we know today wouldn’t exist. So the importance of this is really not an exaggeration. You cannot overstate its importance.
采访 保罗·萨洛佩科 PAUL SALOPEK（国家地理 探险家 撰稿人 National Geographic Explorer and Writer）
我穿越过许多河流，也沿着许多河流行走，我发现河流仿佛是自然景观的传记作家。岷江，从时间的纬度上来看仿佛一条美丽的时间河流，时间也如河流一般流淌。石器时代第一批走过这里的人，一直到现在拥有2000多万人口、高楼林立的现代都市，成都。河流讲述着发生在中国四川盆地这片区域人类绵延发展的故事。
Paul interview: I've crossed many many rivers and I've walked along many rivers. And what I found is that rivers are biographers of landscape. So the Minjiang is a beautiful river for time, for thinking about time, how time flows back from the stone age the first people who walked through this part of China all the way up to the modern gleaming steel and glass city of Chengdu of 20 plus million people, the entire continuity of the human story and that part in the Sichuan basin of China can be told by that river.
